How much fabric you buy will depend upon the width of the scarf you want to make, and if you want to hand tie fringe on the bottom hems. For a simple 9" wide scarf that's about 56" long, 1/4 yard of fabric will do. Most fleece off the bolt is 58" wide, but if you're not adding fringe, you'll want to cut off the selvedge edges. Click on "read more" to continue.
Another option for fabric is to purchase a nice fleece throw blanket. Most of the vendors who carry blank t-shirts, or embroidery blanks also carry fleece blankets. My favorite brand of those blankets is Colorado Trading -- they're thick, and plush. Most measure at least 60" long, so you can get 4 scarves from a blanket. One advantage of using blankets is they are usually whip stitched on the edges, so once you remove the stitching from the narrow ends, you're left with perfectly spaced holes to thread, and tie fringe.
If you find some fleece in the remnant bin, that isn't quite enough for a scarf, you can cut and tie the pieces together to make a color block scarf like the one pictured above. I made 3" long cuts on each end of the fleece piece, 1/2 inch apart, then tied...it's just that easy.
On the scarf below, I made 4 inch cuts, 1/4 inch apart to create more of a fringe look where the 2 pieces are tied together. Either way, cut your ties just a little longer than the desired finished length so that you can trim your fringe or ties evenly after you've completed joing the color blocks, or tied fringe.
When embroidering fleece, I prefer to not place the fabric inside the hoop because it can scar the fleece. I'm also not a fan of sticky embroidery stabilizer...I've just always found that the needle gets sticky, and can effect the stitching. So I use a similar method -- I hoop a piece of medium weight tear-away backing, and spray it with the same tacky spray I use for the pallet when I'm screen printing. I find that pallet spray is a lighter spray, and holds quite nicely.
If you'd like to try the spray, either take your hooped backing outside, or keep a large box near your sewing area to place the hoop in while spraying so that you don't get over-spray on your table or floor. The tackiness will eventually dissipate, but keeping it off your surfaces to begin with is easier. If the spray begins to build up on the hoop, use a rag and rubbing alcohol to remove all the sticky residue.
I then pin my rinse away topping in place, pinning it down just outside sewing area.